An Intimate History of How We Keep Things Close
April 1, 2023
Once upon a time in western Europe, everyone carried a purse of sorts, but in the mid-1500s, the purse moved inside men's clothing as sewn-in pockets. Carlson, who teaches in the apparel design department at the Rhode Island School of Design, reveals what this change signified in terms of privilege, sexuality, and security; why we're so fascinated by what people carry around in these little hiding places; and why women's clothing still has fewer pockets today. Four-color illustrations throughout. Prepub Alert.
Copyright 2023 Library Journal
Copyright 2023 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.
August 1, 2023
Award-winning researcher, lecturer, and conservator of textiles and costumes Carlson brings readers an in-depth exploration of pockets throughout Western history. The very beginnings of pockets inclusion in Western clothing are outlined, followed by pockets' usage throughout the centuries to the modern day. Similar clothing additives, such as codpieces and purses, are also examined, their own histories inextricably intertwined with that of the pocket. Textile and clothing history are not all this tome holds, however; the book explores much beyond textile history alone. Discussion of the ways pockets' inclusion and lack thereof in various articles of clothing affect culture and how we stand, move, and carry ourselves as well as how gender and age are perceived, and the ability to commit crime and hide weapons provides fascinating insight as to how something as simple as a pocket can influence culture, gender, and society as a whole. Full-color images and photos are abundant throughout the text, wonderfully illustrating that which is being discussed. Perfect for readers interested in history and textiles as well as culture, sociology, and gender.
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September 22, 2023
In her fascinating first book, Carlson (dress history and material culture, Rhode Island Sch. of Design) addresses the history, sociology, and politics of pockets. The richly illustrated title discusses those who routinely "get" the fashion component (men) and those who must beg, borrow, or sew their own (women). Carlson posits several theories about this imbalance (patriarchy, fast fashion), but that's only part of the fun of this book, which has nearly 50 pages of endnotes and an index. In chronological order but with plenty of cross-century commentary from the likes of Mark Twain, Elizabeth Cady Stanton, journalists and observers of the times, and contemporary fashion commentators, the book details the development of pockets in Western attire. Roughly 500 years ago, pockets began to develop from pouches. As they became more prevalent, especially in men's apparel, pockets and their contents engendered many reactions: fear of concealed weapons easily accessed; fascination with the casually defiant "hands in pockets" stance of Walt Whitman and W.E.B. DuBois; wonder at the treasures in boys' pockets; envy and frustration among women who craved the ease of pocketed clothing. Carlson's side trip discussing smart textiles, however, feels tacked on. VERDICT This erudite, enjoyable book about pockets delivers.--Liz French
Copyright 2023 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.